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A nom de guerre is a wartime alias that historically served to identify the group, thereby giving the members solidarity, as well as keeping the personal identity of each member safe during operations. These ideas of fraternity and sublimating one’s identity to operate within a group, and thereby creating a composite culture, appealed to Holly Harnsongkram, Wil Whitney, Devon Turnbull and Isa Saalabi, the four creative minds behind the brand Nom de Guerre.
“During World War II, the thinking and purpose behind the uniforms changed dramatically and as a result, the designs became more practical and utilitarian,” says Turnbull. “ Prior to this, uniforms were colorful and much more rigid.”
“This collection is not specifically based on any particular army and our references for the cut and fabric were extremely broad,” adds Harnsongkram. “Moreover, what draws us to study uniforms is our interest in what it is that cross culturally forms the design choices behind uniforms. It is similarly interesting to look at religious icons – why some symbols and objects are chosen over others and how common objects are transformed into icons and reliquaries. Basically, we wanted to distil the lines and ideas that differentiate uniforms from common clothing.”
Music that inspires the collective is Francois-Joel Thiollier’s recording of some Debussy’s compositions, and Lou Reed’s Transformer album, which contains a bit of New York attitude. But Nom de Guerre’s mainstays are John Cage, Soft Circle, Queen, and Iggy Pop. New York musicians who wear their collection include Hisham Bharoocha of Soft Circle and the guys in Grizzly Bear. DP
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